This reminds me when people have told me they don’t like tequila, often because when they were young (myself included), they drank too much poor-quality tequila, which left them... not feeling great! Similarly, a very smoky mezcal can discourage newcomers from exploring mezcal further. So, is it true that the smokier a mezcal, the lesser its quality? As with most complex and nuanced answers: yes and no.
Mezcaleros may debate this point because every palenque operates through generations of legacy and experience, each using their own techniques to craft a unique flavour profile.
Typically, the smokiness in mezcal comes from how the agave hearts are cooked. The intensity of smokiness depends on several factors: the length of the roasting process, the type of wood used, the volcanic rock lining the pit, and even the organic material covering the piñas during roasting. This process is always manual, requiring expertise and a deep sense of artistry.
A well-crafted mezcal achieves a balance between smokiness and other flavors, such as sweetness, fruitiness, earthiness, or herbal notes. The aim is not to over-smoke the piñas during the cooking process. If the smoky flavour dominates to the point of masking these other elements, it can indicate an imbalance in the production process or suboptimal practices.
For example at Bandida, we aim for a very light smokiness while ensuring a strong and deep tone of flavours. Personally, I believe a mezcal should allow you to taste every element used in its making—from the volcanic rock in the pits to the materials used in the stills. Ideally, you want a depth of flavour that shows off the terroir, craftsmanship, and legacy behind the spirit. It's easy for me to say this after spending a lot of time in Mexico, but if you just go once and visit some palenques, you will most likely feel the same. When people say “taste Mexico,” although it might sound cliché, it reflects a true sentiment every time you try a quality Mezcal.
I’ve visited hundreds of palenques and observed the wide variety of materials Mezcaleros use to cover the piñas during roasting—everything from leaves to canvas and even I've seen boxes. This variation, combined with each Mezcalero’s unique techniques, creates remarkable diversity in the final flavour profiles. Whenever you visit a new palenque, try at least 10 different expressions of their mezcal to try and understand their approach and the nuances in their mezcal.
For Bandida, we’ve chosen to use agaves at peak maturation and incorporate the capón method, where agave plants are left to mature fully, concentrating their sugars for deeper, more complex flavours. This approach ensures a balance of flavour and light smokiness.
The other point I would like to make about Mezcal is how much everyone involved does not see the production process as a chore, but the opposite. Of course, harvesting the agave is very hard work, but in most cases this work is carried out with a deep care for the land, and passion from the families making the mezcal.
Will people graduate from Tequila to Mezcal?
Yes, many people are graduating from tequila to mezcal, especially as they become more interested in exploring the nuances of agave spirits. Here’s why this progression happens:
Mezcal is often seen as tequila’s more adress Al, complex cousin. And we know, that all tequila is, in fact mezcal.
There’s a global trend towards premium and ultra-premium spirits. People looking for high-end experiences often move to mezcal, which is known for its handcrafted production methods.
Mezcal offers a broader range of flavours, including earthy, herbaceous notes. This appeals to people who want a more sophisticated and varied tasting experience compared to tequila, which often has a more straightforward profile.
As mezcal becomes more available in bars and restaurants, people who already enjoy tequila may try it on recommendations from bartenders or friends. Education about the differences between tequila and mezcal helps bridge the gap.
Artesanal Mezcal, is made with 100% agave and without additives, sugars, gluten, sweeteners or diffusers so appeals to health-conscious consumers. If drinkers discover that their favorite tequilas have additives, they might turn to mezcal for its natural approach.
Again: yes and no.
One thing you will notice is that many celebrity tequilas tend to have a lower alcohol percentage, typically ranging from 38% to 40%. However, mezcal under 40% ABV often tastes diluted or lacks complexity, which can negatively impact its quality.
That said, a well-crafted mezcal at 40% can still be excellent if it achieves a balance between alcohol, flavours, and aromas. And of course with care and attention to the process.
Here is a recent post on Tequila vs Mezcal.
Luis wrote an insightful and interesting post on celebrity tequilas, which you can find here: Celebrity Tequilas Sales Decline.
On the other hand, high-proof mezcal can be outstanding when produced correctly, offering more intense, concentrated flavours and aromas. A general rule of thumb—shared by many—is that higher-percentage mezcals, when balanced and expertly crafted, tend to deliver exceptional flavour profiles over lower-percentage mezcals.
On another post, I’ll dive deeper into how the Maestro Mezcalero determines the balance between heads (puntas), heart (corazón), and tails (colas) in the final mezcal—a decision that greatly impacts its flavor, smoothness, and overall character.